Anatomy of a Shoe

The brogue, defined by its multiple upper panels of leather, is a work of craftsmanship capable of enlivening a suit or bringing elegance to a daytime ensemble. To discover what components come together in order to form this sublime style, we take a closer look at the anatomy of Swear London’s contrast brogue.

The Classic Last

last-001 The shoe is made from a combination of navy, tan and oxblood pull-up leather. To begin the construction process, the upper section of the brogue is placed over the last, and its edges are pulled and glued underneath, stretching the leather to form the shape of the mould.

The Upper Quarter

quarter-upper-001-u963 The upper quarters of the brogue are cut by hand. The points of attachment are marked on the leather with a silver pen and the shoe is stitched together, using three different colours of thread to match the three types of leather.

The Upper Vamp

vamp-combined-001 The shoe is stitched from front to back, starting with the toe and upper vamp. The facings and upper quarter are then attached and the shoe is finally closed at the rear.

The Backstay

backstay-u976
The rear piece is attached last and stitched by hand.

The Inner Lining

inner-001 The inner lining of the shoe is stitched to the rear of each element before the shoe’s final assembly.

The Outer Sole

outer-sole-002-u1012 sole-001
The rubber outer sole is placed on a rotating plinth and sprayed with a speckle effect. While the upper quarter is stretched over the last, the outer sole is cemented to the shoe itself.

The Finished Shoe

finished-shoe-001 When the brogue is removed from the last, it is treated and brushed in the finishing area. Loose threads are burnt away, the inner sock is added and the white laces are threaded into the shoe.

The shoe used in this break down was provided by SWEAR London and can be bought here 

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